Ann Arbor: Monahan's Seafood Market

When I made the decision to attend law school in Michigan almost two years ago, no one told me that I would be constructively depriving myself of decently fresh seafood for three years. That's just one little tidbit they left out of the glossy brochures. The seafood in Michigan is abysmal. It is so abysmal that even some of the supposedly higher end restaurants in Ann Arbor succeed in serving fish and shellfish entrees that at best, are of questionable freshness, and at worst, taste defrosted or old.

The one bright spot in this rather bleak picture is Monahan's. Generally considered to be the best place for fresh fish in Ann Arbor, founder Mike Monahan sources fish from the usual out-of-state suspects (New England, Florida, Hawaii, etc.), as well as locally (Michigan is, after all, surrounded by four of the five Great Lakes). They also pride themselves on being the only market in Ann Arbor to bring fish in whole, and then cutting or filleting to order.

Monahan's also does a brisk lunch business out of a small side counter in their fish market operation. Everyday from 11am to 3pm, the staff serves up tried-and-true favorites, as well as daily fish and chowder specials that they post on Twitter. During a particularly unproductive weekend, I meandered down to the fish market, located in Sparrow Market in Kerrytown, to check out some of the lunch offerings.

Fish and chips: Beer battered, North Atlantic pollack, with hand-cut fries

I went for the classic fish and chips during my first visit. The pollack was flaky, tender, mildly flavorful and fresh - just as it should be. The house-made tartar sauce, thick and tangy and loaded with pickled cucumber, only accentuates the quality of the fish. However, the frying technique at Monahan's leaves a bit to be desired. The batter encasing that great pollack was resoundingly crisp in some spots, but greasy and limp in others. The hand-cut fries exhibited similar unevenness in texture.

Bernie's Fabulous Chowder of the Day: New England clam chowder

Monahan's Atlantic Salmon Burgers, served with lettuce, tomato, onion and mustard-dill sauce

Still, I enjoyed my meal enough to pay Monahan's a second visit a few days later for a salmon burger and some New England clam chowder. The burger is served on a lightly toasted hamburger bun, which gives the sandwich just enough crunch. However, the salmon cake, while velvety and moist, could have used a bit more seasoning. I took a few bites sans the mustard-dill sauce and found the salmon flavor too mild. The sauce was a necessity with this sandwich, not a superfluous indulgence. The chowder, on the other hand, was well-balanced and expertly seasoned, with generous chunks of potato, celery and clam immersed in the creamy broth. For once, the clams were tender, rather than rubbery, and they didn't look or taste canned.

There is no doubt that the seafood at Monahan's is supremely fresh, and for that, they should be commended. The staff also deserves praise for their attentiveness and willingness to accommodate; my servers on both occasions were jovial and prompt. Monahan's aquatic fare is good, but the kitchen needs to tighten up their seasoning and cooking technique so that the preparation stands up to the quality of the product. Nevertheless, Monahan's has great potential, and I look forward to sampling more of their specials during the remainder of my time in Michigan.

Monahan's Seafood Market

407 N. Fifth Ave.
Ann Arbor, MI 48104

(734) 662-5118

Best dishes: Chowder, fish and chips

Hours: Lunch served Monday-Saturday, 11am-3pm; Sunday, bagels & lox served all day

Website: http://www.monahansseafood.com/