Sorella

The borders of Chinatown have been creeping into Little Italy for years now, but Italian newcomer Sorella has decided to strike back. In 2009, it plopped itself down between two rundown Chinese storefronts on Allen Street, close enough to the East Village to attract downtown hipsters with its small plates and wine bar concept, but in a humble enough location to match its fledgling status. Its impenetrable dark gray exterior is hardly inviting, but behind those heavy doors and rows of tiny porthole windows, a delightful jaunt through the cuisine of Piedmont, Italy awaits those curious enough to enter.

Piedmont is located in northern Italy, and is one of the country's wealthiest regions. Unsurprisingly, its cuisine is characterized by luxurious, rich ingredients; egg yolks, truffles, butter and cheese are used with a heavy hand. Sorella doesn't deviate from this decadent approach, yet manages to imbue a certain lightness to its fare, so that the diner is satisfied, rather than overwhelmed, by the end of the meal. The way the menu is structured, into qualcosina ("little something" in Italian), probably helps too.

The meal begins with a bundle of complimentary grissini, the slender breadsticks that originated in Turin, the capital of Piedmont. Crunchy and salty, they have an addictive quality that will have you reaching for them throughout your meal.

Pate de fegato: Duck fat English muffin bread, chicken liver mousse, fried egg, bacon.

This is what I came to Sorella for. Extravagant? Sure. Pervasive meatiness emanating from every duck fat-soaked bite I took? Check. However, while this dish was good, it was a bit underwhelming. The flavors failed to play off one another and highlight the intensity of the other components; they were individually delicious, but never became more than a sum of their parts.

Hearst Ranch Beef Carne Cruda: sugar snap peas, parmesan, lemon aioli and crispy shallots.

The beef cruda fared much better. Luscious cubes of beef sit on the plate like a mound of rubies, crowned with a tangle of fried shallots that lend a savory crunch to the supple meat. The effect is a whole lot like eating a good rare steak topped with some frizzled onions or thick cut potato chips - just in a more refined package. A smear of that lemon aioli, and that's about as good as it gets. The sugar snap peas were lovely as well, sweet and delicate, momentarily punctuated by the sharp Parmesan with each forkful.

Risotto: Ruby red shrimp, Caprino Capra, lemon, almond, chilies

Pasta is one of Sorella's strong points. Risotto, which I usually associate with fall or winter, had been carefully tweaked to complement the warm summer weather through the use of lighter, sunnier ingredients. The fat, al dente grains of rice, which had been stirred to a creamy (though never mushy) consistency were enlivened by the zest of the lemon and subtle crunch of sliced almonds. From time to time, you will be rewarded with one of those sweet ruby red shrimp, plump and jewel-like, nestled in the risotto's starchy depths.

Tajarin: Lamb ragu, black pepper ricotta, pistachios, mint

Tajarin, a delicate, egg yolk-heavy pasta specific to the Piedmont region, is one of the best pastas you will ever eat and Sorella's is no exception. The subtle gaminess of the lamb, the grassiness of the ricotta and the soft egginess of the pasta combine in a whirlwind of contrasting and complementary flavors, the noodles maintaining an ethereal daintiness despite their heavy accoutrements. I especially loved the ricotta, which is thicker and more paste-like than most - it gives the dish a presence rather than taking a backseat to the lamb and the tajarin.

Brussel sprouts with bacon and apple

The brussel sprouts were the only true disappointment of the night. They had been roasted down to a abrasive bitterness, rather than a caramelized sweetness. We abandoned this shortly after its arrival.

Bomboloni: Lemon custard, raspberry sauce

These little Italian doughnuts are a favorite of mine, and I order them every chance I get. On that particular night, a tart lemon custard had been piped into the doughnuts, which were accompanied by a raspberry dipping sauce. While I love both lemon and raspberry, I would have preferred more of a contrast between the filling and the sauce. The tart sweetness of the lemon custard was mirrored in the raspberry sauce, making for a rather one-dimensional experience. Nevertheless, I ate my fair share.

Assortment of gelato: Espresso, hazelnut and peanut butter

Like any good Italian restaurant, Sorella offers a daily selection of gelati and sorbetti. Neither the espresso nor the hazelnut gelato made much of an impression; however, the peanut butter evoked memories of my favorite childhood Reese's ice cream.

Sorella is a bit pricey, with small plates ranging from $10-16 and desserts from $8-11. With wine, the meal can become exorbitantly expensive for what you thought was a casual dinner out. The wines are impressive, but if you are worried about price, splurge on either food or wine, not both. The restaurant itself is conducive to such an approach; it is split into two main areas: a dimly lit wine bar at the front of the restaurant, and a small but airy dining area in the back with expansive skylights cut into the ceiling. Whatever your pleasure, once you are behind that imposing facade, you will find yourself transported to a charming cafe in Piedmont, where carefree diners sip velvety wines and laugh over wonderfully executed regional cuisine - a little bit of Italy in Chinatown.

Sorella

95 Allen St.

New York, NY 10002

Best dishes: Beef cruda, risotto, tajarin, any of the pastas

Hours: Closed on Mondays; Tues-Sat: 6pm - 2am; Sun: 5:30pm-midnight. A reservation is likely not necessary.