The only thing little about this gelato shop on the Lowest East Side is its size. Il Laboratorio del Gelato garners long lines (particularly on a hot summer day) and delivers even bigger flavors. Situated across the street from the Tenement Museum, ILDG specializes in gelato and sorbet, in both traditional and avante garde flavors, made in small batches to maintain the artisanal quality of its product. Although ILDG has concocted approximately 200 flavors since it opened in 2002, only about ten or so are available each day. The daily flavors change regularly.
Earl grey tea gelato and lime sorbet: ILDG's gelato is intensely flavored and perfectly creamy. Nothing mars its milky consistency. The earl grey gelato captured the subtle flavor of a cup of properly steeped tea and amplified it several times over. Why can't afternoon tea just be a cup of earl grey tea gelato and scones? The lime sorbet was icy cold and refreshing. It is not as smooth as some other sorbets but it somehow seems right - the slightly chunkier texture seemed to suit the in-your-face tartness and brightness of the lime. Accenting the piquancy of the sorbet was the faintly sweet aftertaste that crept up upon me as each spoonful melted away. Tiny shavings of lime peel are peppered throughout. I had been worried that the two flavors together in the same cup would be unpalatable but they were surprisingly complementary. The tart-y sweetness of the lime seemed to pick up right where the astringent, tannic tea flavor had left off.
I sampled two other sorbets before ordering, including yellow watermelon and honeydew melon. Both showcased the flavors of the fruit extremely well, although I found each just a tad too sweet for my liking.
ILDG is for the gelato and sorbet purist. No cute decorations, no mix-ins - just small, modest tubs of gelato and sorbet that are unadulterated expressions of their namesake flavors. ILDG's willingness to experiment with unusual combinations and the superb quality of its ingredients make it one of my top picks for gelato in New York.
Il Laboratorio del Gelato
95 Orchard Street
New York, NY 10002
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